Upwards and onwards to Sundowner Zambezi Lodge and Deka Tiger Mile (October 2026)

Deka Drum & Tiger Mile are iconic names when it comes to anyone who is familiar with Western Zimbabwe (Matabeleland) and the Zambezi River.

Sundowner Zambezi Lodge is a landmark and anyone who has been to the area will recognize the big thatch roof of the boma on the grassy green banks guarding the iconic view over the "Deka Pool". My father (Trevor Sinclair) purchased the property from Buster Bradfield in the 90's and the rustic lodge was born.

It has been transformed from wooden stilted chalets to Rock & thatch lodges, woodland view rooms and a family cottage. You can check out more of the current details here.

I took two trips up to Sundowner between August & October and in the next few paragraphs will share my experience to prepare you for what to expect for your next trip.

For the first trip in August, I flew in from Johannesburg to Victoria Falls with Fast Jet airlines. They fly daily and arrive early (12pm) and depart the middle of the afternoon , which is convenient for transfers and connecting with other flights. The flight time is approximately 1hr45min. The new International and Domestic section of Victoria Falls Airport was built a few years ago and has air-conditioning plus free wi-fi. There is a new online e-visa (https://www.evisa.gov.zw/) which should be completed before travelling to Zim. This is free for most SADEC passport holders and other International passport holders can pay for the visa online.

August & September is regarded a "Champagne" season with warm days and cool nights. Great to have very few insects as this is the dry time. The most cost effective transport for the 125 km from the Vic Falls Airport to Deka (Sundowner Lodge) is by road transfer. There are a variety of options including local taxi but we prefer to use the services of a registered tour company where the vehicles are road worthy, have proper air con, public indemnity, public driving permits and back up vehicles (just in case). The route from the airport takes you 80km down to A8 (main Vic Falls - Bulawayo highway). Everything you may have read about the road deteriating due to overloaded chinese trucks is accurate. There is however some positive light on the horizon as some sections are still decent and the tar has been re-built in other sections. The transport has to travel slowly due to the pot holes and state of the road so be prepared for some bumping around and a 2,5-3 hour drive (used to take 1,5 hours in the good old days). You turn off left from the A8 onto the Deka/Msuna road. The first 6-7km through the new coal mine is a combination of coal dust and gravel, then changes back to the original narrow tar road. There are good sections and a significant number of pot holes on other sections (where locals are helping to fill in pot holes with wet, compressed gravel). This certainly is helping.

To be continued after the self drive section below...

My second trip was in the beginning of October. Apparently it is nick named "suicide month on the Zambezi" because people used to drink copius amounts of gin & tonic with the heat and the ensuing "gin" depression resulted in people commiting suicide (facts still to be verified). 

I drove up Richard (guest, hockey acquaintance and fly fishing enthusiast). The route we took was from Joburg - Martinsdrift-Pandamatenga-Deka (Zambezi)

The border post coming through Martinsdrift was quick on both SA & Zim side. Remember the online TIP and SARS docs. The road is generally good to Francistown, although you have to watch out for a couple of nasty pot holes (especially on the first section after the border).

Comfortable overnight stay in Francistown at Diggers Inn. Normally stay at Nata Lodge.

Road from Francistown to Nata has lots of roadworks. Can be hair raising at times with trucks taking up 1,5 lanes and serious drop on the side of the road.

The road from Nata to Pandamatenga Border was also generally good with repair teams working on pot holes and work seems to be coming along well with new high way.

Once the new road is completed, it will be a pleasure driving Francistown to Kasane/Pandamatenga.

The border crossing at Pandamatenga was a pleasure with efficient and friendly officials. The e-visa and TIP for Zim will save time is done in advance. There were functioning computer tablets where you can complete your the docs if you forgot to do it in advance.

The road from Pandamatenga to the T-Junction (Robins camp or Marwari hunting area) was in decent condition. After the early rain there were lots of mud/water puddles in the road but no need for concern.

We turned left at the gravel road through Matetsi hunting area to join the A8 (Vic Falls-Bulawayo) road. This was in decent condition. We didn’t see any game on this section but I am sure that there is lots of grazing and water so they are spread out.

The tar road (A8) to Hwange still has some dodgy pot hole sections but there are some good sections of original tar and newly upgraded sections.

We turned off left at the Deka road just before Hwange Town. It is 44,5 km to the turn off to Sundowner Zambezi Lodge. The first 6-7km is a mixture of gravel and coal with the original tar almost non existant. The narrow tar road is still reasonable but lots of pot holes (locals working on filling and compacting with wet sand). This is always an exciting experience with some steep uphills/down hills, low level bridges, blind corners and blind rises. At the 44,5 km mark we turned left at the Sundowner Zambezi Lodge sign. The gravel road is 1,5km and is good condition. You drive through a stunning Mopane forest. When you arrive at the lodge you are greeted with a panaromic view of the Zambezi river that simply takes your breath away.

The next part of the story...

The accommodation is in rock & thatch lodges & rooms. All with private bathrooms. It is rustic but comfortable and clean. From the front lodges and boma you can watch fish rising, fish eagles, hippo, crocs and the mesmerizing flow the river. The new layers 

A dip in the plunge pool helps to keep the temperature down.

This area with the black basalt rock formations hot in summer but grass lawns, large riverine trees, thatch and new air coolers (with water) helps a lot.

The fishing has improved over the last two years with higher river levels and more tourism properties in the area putting pressure on the illegal netting.

Fishing with spinners, bait and fly is offered. We caught Tigerfish, big Nkupe and 30kg Vundu. The motor boats are an ideal way to explore this unique water way (fondly known as Deka Tiger Mile or Deka Drum).

This route is ideal for 4x4 enthusiasts although you can reach with a high clearance 4x2 vehicle, motor bike or Mountain bike.

This Western section of Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia is special and you get a true Southern African experience.

For more info on our trip or the venues we used please feel free to message me - Wayne (0834140391)